Ways to Prevent Fabric from Fraying and Enclose Seams WITHOUT A Serger
HOW CAN I FINISH RAW EDGES AND SEAMS WITHOUT A SERGER?
Raw edges can be enclosed and seams can be finished using regular sewing machines.
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Here are 9 ways to prevent fraying and enclose seams just using a regular sewing machine.
1) Zig-Zag Stitch:
The use of a zig-zag stitch is one way raw edges can be enclosed without a serger.
Just about every machine comes with a zig-zag stitch, so this should be an option regardless of which sewing machine model you have and regardless of whether it is mechanical or computerized.
Therefore, even with basic sewing machines, you can use a zig-zag stitch along the edge of your fabric to help prevent fraying and enclose seams. When sewing, just make sure you line up your needle so that the outer edge of the zig-zag stitch catches at the very edge of the fabric, or just over the edge of the fabric.
Using a zig-zag stitch to enclose a raw edge
You can either use the zig-zag stitch to pre-treat all the edges of your fabric, or you can use it to give seams a nicer finish. When finishing the seams, sew the two pieces of fabric together with the seam allowance, as normal, and then run the zig-zag stitch along the edge.
2) Overcasting Presser Foot and Overedge Stich:
The best way, however, to finish raw edges and enclose seams with a sewing machine is through the use of an overcasting presser foot and an overedge stitch.
Slightly more advanced sewing machines may come with an overcasting presser foot and an overedge stitch. The overcasting presser foot and overedge stitch allow you to closely mimic the way sergers finish seams. Overedge stitches sew the seam and finish the raw edge all in one step, similar to the serger.
As with the zig-zag stitch, the overcasting foot and overedge stitch can be used to pre-treat fabric to prevent all edges from unraveling, and can also be used to finish seams while preventing fraying simultaneously. It can also add strength to seams even when fraying is not a concern.
Overcasting Presser Foot
Overedge Stitch
So, if you invest in a sewing machine that includes an overcasting presser foot and an overedge stitch, then you can achieve all of your sewing needs within one machine. You can come pretty close to the functions of the serger without having to purchase the extra machine.
Side Note: The overcasting foot is my second most-used presser foot (second only to the general-purpose foot), and I would highly recommend that you consider purchasing a machine that comes with one included. Or, if it can be added, add it. I use it for everything.
Finishing a raw edge and enclosing a seam using an overedge stitch and overcasing presser foot.
3) Anti-Fray Liquid:
Anti-Fray liquid stops fraying on fabric.
It is a clear, liquid sealant (kind of like a glue) that prevents fabric from fraying and secures end threads. It stays clear when it dries and is soft and flexible (no need to worry about your fabric getting stiff).
It typically comes in the form of a squeezable bottle.
Some brands promote it as washable and dry-cleanable. It can be removed, in the event of unwanted spots, with rubbing alcohol.
Regardless of whether or not you use other methods of attempting to prevent fraying or enclose seams, anti-fray liquid can be an invaluable tool in your sewing room. *I frequently use it to stop fraying at corners and areas that are difficult to enclose. I also use it to finish the edges of cutouts and applique.
Note: It is flammable, and somewhat sticky until it dries.
What I Use:
I use Dritz Fray Check, which also happens to be one of the most popular and widely available brands.
It is easy to use and is washable and dry-cleanable. (Most of my projects are accessories that don’t get washed, but I’ve used it on one shirt that has been washed, and that seems to be holding up pretty well.)
It should always be tested on fabric. While in most instances using Fray Check hasn’t left any stains or discoloration, I have had it leave a darker spot (it looks like the fabric is wet) if I use too much of it in the same spot.
Some packages come with a fabric guide applicator in addition to the regular cone tip. This applicator has two sides that you place the fabric in between so that you can more easily guide it along the edge of the fabric. The original cone tip is great for spot application.
*The following link is an affiliate link. If you choose to make a purchase from this link, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.*
Dritz Fray Check
Product Info:
It uses n-propanol, Nylon Terpolymer (used as a binder in synthetic fibers), and water.
n-Propanol is a primary alcohol typically used as a solvent. It is flammable and has a slight odor. If exposed to high doses, or for too long a period, it can cause headaches, but is otherwise not harmful.
Nylon Terpolymer is used as a binder in synthetic fibers.
4) Scalloped Rotary Cutter or Pinking Shears:
Pinking Shears
Pinking shears are specialized scissors that have a serrated, or sawtooth-like jagged edge, that is used to cut a zig-zag edge in fabric, which prevents it from fraying.
This works because it cuts part of the fabric on the bias, which doesn’t fray.
*Note: If you buy pinking shears, be sure they are made to cut fabric, as opposed to paper. The paper ones will be completely useless on the fabric.
Scalloped Rotary Cutter (Left), Regular Rotary Cutter (Right)
Scalloped Rotary Cutter
A scalloped rotary cutter is similar to a normal rotary cutter (a fabric cutter that has a handle with a circular blade that rotates). Except, instead of a smooth blade, it has a scalloped blade that mimics the function of the pinking shears to create a zig-zag edge on the fabric and prevent fraying.
If you already have a regular rotary cutter, you can get scalloped replacement blades to put on the one you have. Or, you can buy a full rotary cutter with scalloped blades. Some rotary cutters come with a mix of regular smooth, and scalloped, rotary blades.
Which is better?
It’s entirely a matter of personal preference.
Personally, I prefer using a rotary cutter versus scissors, because:
1) it is much sharper
2) it seems to cut smoother
3) it is much quicker and easier as I do not have to open and close the blade repeatedly (as with scissors).
Plus, it is easier to maintain a straight line, because you can cut the entire piece with one quick run of the hand along the distance of the fabric. For this reason, I also prefer a scalloped rotary cutter as opposed to pinking shears. It just seems much easier.
Scalloped rotary cutters can be difficult to find in stores (even in fabric stores). So, if you’re interested in purchasing one, you may need to look online.
I use the AUTOTOOLHOME scalloped rotary cutter and I love it! It works so great. Like most rotary cutters, it has a safety button that locks the blade in place, against the back plastic, to prevent you from accidentally cutting yourself or something else. The retractable lever on the handle rotates the blade out for use but slides the blade back into place when you let go. It comes with 10 blades included; five are scalloped pinking blades and five are regular smooth blades. It is extremely sharp, which you want when cutting fabric. I’ve had mine for almost two years and I have not had to replace the blade yet.
*The following link is an affiliate link. If you choose to make a purchase from this link, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.*
View on Amazon
Other types can also be found at Joann’s, Michael’s, and Sewing Parts Online.
5) Bias Tape:
Bias tape is a strip of fabric that has been cut along the bias*. Strips cut along the bias are pieced together to make a long ‘tape’.
Not only do strips cut on the bias not fray, but they are also stretchier and more flexible than fabric cut on the grain**.
*Bias: the 45-degree angle across the weave of the fabric.
**On the grain refers to cutting in the direction the fabric was woven***.
***Woven fabric is a fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another.
Bias tape ranges in size (width) and length and can either be single or double fold.
Single-fold bias tape has two raw edges folded towards the center.
Double-fold bias tape also has the two raw edges folded towards the center, but it is then folded again, on the center, enclosing the raw edges.
You can either purchase ready-made bias tape, or you can make it yourself. There are advantages and disadvantages to each.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Ready-Made Bias Tape
*It depends on the nature of the project, as well as how much time you have, as to which option is better/which one you should choose. I use both ready-made and homemade bias tape depending on the project and circumstance.
Advantages and disadvantages of making your own bias tape.
Not ready to make your own? Or does the ease and convenience of ready-made bias tape sound more like your style? Either way, you can follow the link below to check out some ready-made bias tape options.
*The following link is an affiliate link. If you choose to make a purchase from this link, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.*
*The following link is an affiliate link. If you choose to make a purchase from this link, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.*
6) Hemming Tape:
Hemming tape is a thin strip of double-sided webbing that has a heat-activated adhesive. It comes in a tape roll.
Hemming tape is placed between two layers of fabric and ironed in place thus securing the edges of fabric while bonding to the sticky tape.
*Note: Be sure to pre-wash any fabric before using hemming tape.
Hemming tape will minimize fraying in most fabrics.
Although any brand of hemming tape will likely work equally as well, I find the HeatnBond brand to work particularly well. It’s easy to use, is adequately sticky (holds to the fabric well), and holds up pretty well.
7) Enclosed Seams:
Enclosed seams are seams that enclose the raw edges and seam allowance within the seam.
Not only are enclosed seams a great way to contain raw edges, but they are also ideal for garment construction because the seam is concealed on both the outside and inside, ensuring more comfort against the skin.
Enclosed seams also provide neatness and stability. They are strong seams.
Three common types of enclosed seams are:
• A Flat Felled Seam
• A French Seam
• An Overlapping Seam
Flat-Felled Seam:
A Flat-Felled seam is a strong seam typically used for heavy-weight fabrics.
This type of seam encases the raw edge of the seam allowance.
Instructions:
To sew this seam, you start by putting the wrong sides of the fabric together and sewing a straight stitch along the raw edge with roughly a 5/8th of an inch seam allowance all the way to the end.
Next, press the seam open so that it lays flat.
Then, trim one side of the seam down. Leave about 1/8th to ¼” left.
After this, you take the larger side of the seam and fold it over the shorter one until it lies flat on the other side (with the shorter seam encased in the fold). Pin it in place.
To finish the seam, sew down the seam along the edge that was just folded over. Try to get as close to the edge of the seam as possible.
French Seam:
A French seam is typically used for lightweight fabrics due to its bulky nature.
Instructions:
To sew this seam, start by placing the raw sides of the fabric together and stitch down the fabric at a 1/4” seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance to one side. (To ensure the seam lies flat, it is recommended you press the seam on the other side as well.)
With the wrong sides of the fabric facing down and the seam on top, fold one side of the fabric (over the seam) onto the other. The wrong sides of the fabric should be facing out now.
Press along the seam/edge of the fabric with the seam.
Next, sew down the seam with a ½” seam allowance. After this, press the seam over to one side so that it lies flat to finish the seam.
Overlapping Seam:
An overlapping is an easier, mock flat-felled seam that is typically used for heavy-weight fabrics.
Instructions:
To start, mark a ½” seam allowance on the top of the fabric (right side) on one section of the fabric with a fabric marker (or pencil or chalk). Next, line the other section of the fabric on top of the marked fabric to line up with the mark that was made.
Next, sew down the fabric along the top of the edge where the two fabric sections meet (close to the mark that was made).
After this, sew down the fabric on the same side about a 3/8th of an inch away from the line that was just sewn to complete.
8) Rolled Hem Foot:
Small rolled hem foot used for light-weight fabrics (came with Singer Stylist 7258 Sewing Machine)
Another option to prevent fraying and enclose the raw edge is through the use of a rolled hem foot.
While it may be limited to a more advanced machine, it is a great option for enclosing the raw edge of light or medium-weight fabrics because the fabric rolls in on itself and folds under itself as it sews completely encasing the raw edge.
To utilize a small one like what typically comes with a machine (see photo to the right), it is necessary to try to first press the fabric twice. Press the fabric once and then fold it in on itself again and press it again. Next, run it through the loop on the rolled hem presser foot while sewing a straight stitch to fully enclose the edge of the fabric. For an alternative look, you can use a zig-zag stitch.
Now one thing to keep in mind is that personally, I find the foot that came with my machine to be a little difficult to use. I also typically sew primarily with cotton or quilting cotton, which is not suitable for this foot because this one is limited to light fabrics like shear or organza which are a little harder to keep in place.
That’s why I purchased this larger 3-pack set from Madam Sew that provides a larger opening for the fabric to feed through.
It has three sizes and comes with a larger rectangular rolled hem section that allows me to sew a rolled hem without having to pin or press the fabric down prior to running it through the machine. It turns the fabric under twice and stitches it down just like the other rolled hem foot but is more effective due to its size.
With this pack, you get neat hems at the size you want. Sizes include a half-inch, three-quarter-inch, and one-inch.
The use of a rolled hem foot is a huge time saver and can be utilized in a variety of project types.
Another advantage of Madam Sew’s three-piece set is that it is specifically designed for medium-weight fabrics. Although, you can use it on any fabric type.
You can use a zig-zag or other decorative stitches, and it doesn’t need a corner or a straight edge. You can also use it on a curve or a tube, although personally, I have not tried that, but according to their instructions, you can.
9) Double Fold:
Now, similar to a rolled hem foot or a hem in general, a double fold is another way to enclose a raw edge or finish a seam.
You can achieve this by folding the fabric towards the wrong side of the fabric…the unfinished side of the fabric…pressing it, and then folding it in on itself a second time.
Then, sew that down close to the edge so that the raw edge is contained within the fold similar to a rolled hem foot and a regular hem.