Master Your Sewing Machine: A Part-by-Part Breakdown
A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO THE BASIC PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE AND STANDARD INCLUDED ACCESSORIES
New to sewing?
Not sure what is what when it comes to parts of a sewing machine?
Not sure which features you should want in a sewing machine?
Not sure which accessories are standard or necessary, much less what they are and when/why they are used?
If you answered yes to any of the questions above, then this guide is for you.
Below is a list of sewing machine features/parts that includes the relevant information for each part/feature. Illustrated diagrams, demonstrating different types/models of sewing machines, are included to show you where each feature is located on the machine.
This guide also has information about common sewing machine accessories that may come included with your machine.
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Sewing Machine Features/Parts
Below, you’ll find the list of sewing machine features/parts in alphabetical order.
Things to keep in mind as you review:
Not all features are available on every machine or look the same on each machine.
There are some features specific to computerized machines and some features that are only available on more advanced machines.
Additionally, features available on both computerized and mechanical machines will look different based on the nature of the machine’s design/hardware.
**Please refer to the labeled sewing machine diagrams for specific examples of computerized and mechanical sewing machines, as well as the locations of referenced features. Click here to download a free copy of the illustrated guide for easy reference.
Accessory Box/Detachable Work Support/Compartment
An accessory box is a small detachable compartment, typically located at the bottom left corner of your machine, that houses the machine accessories included with your machine.
It is large enough to house the essentials, such as presser feet, spool pin caps, felt discs, the included screwdriver, bobbins, needles, etc., and ensures that you keep such essentials with the machine at all times.
Detaching the box can enable free-arm sewing.
Automatic Needle Threader
An automatic needle threader automatically threads the machine so that you don’t have to try to feed the thread through the eye of the needle manually (which can be difficult).
It is an extremely convenient feature that can save both time and frustration.
It typically comes in the form of a lever that you push and rotate.
How it works:
Once you've threaded the machine, you turn the lever so that the guide piece lines up with the needle/is through the needle eye. Then, you wrap the thread around the lever and hook and then release the lever. Upon release, your needle will be threaded.
Automatic Needle Threader
Some really high-end machines automatically thread the needle by simply pushing down on the lever, but this is not the most common option.
Bobbin
Image Courtesy of PDPics from Pixabay
A bobbin is a small circular/cylindrical piece on which the lower thread is wound. It can either be plastic or metal.
(The machine makes a stitch by catching the bottom thread, from the bobbin, with the top thread from the needle.)
They can either be dropped in at the top (known as a drop-in bobbin) or front-loaded into a case on the side of the machine (known as a front-loading bobbin).
Bobbin Case
Front-Loading Bobbin
A bobbin case is, as it sounds, a case that holds the bobbin while you sew.
In machines that have drop-in bobbins, the case is a fixed piece on the inside of the machine that you simply drop the bobbin into.
It isn’t necessary to remove this case to insert the bobbin. It is, however, easy to remove if you intend to clean the machine, and you would do so after first removing the needle plate.
The bulk of the case is typically plastic with metal elements.
In machines that have front-loading bobbins, the case is typically metal and it is necessary to remove it to insert the bobbin. The bobbin and case are inserted into the side of the machine. The case must be realigned each time it is inserted/the bobbin is changed.
Clear Bobbin Cover Plate and Release Button
Bobbin Cover Release Button
On machines with drop-in bobbins, this button is used to release the, usually clear, bobbin cover that is over the entrance to the bobbin.
Bobbin Thread Hook/Path
This is the path/route that the bobbin thread is taken in order to ready it for use. Similar to threading the upper thread/needle, the bobbin thread is looped around in a certain direction to ready it for sewing.
Bobbin Threading Diagram
This is simply a diagram, that is typically located on the machine, showing you which direction to loop the bobbin thread/how to thread the bobbin.
Bobbin Threading Diagram Shown on the Left of the Machine/Left of the Needle Plate
Bobbin Winder Shaft
If the sewing machine supports built-in bobbin winding, as most modern machines do, then the machine includes a bobbin winding shaft.
The bobbin winder shaft is a short, most likely metal, post that the bobbin is placed on for winding.
Most often this post is shifted either to the left or right to engage the bobbin-winding function.
Bobbin Winder Stop
The bobbin winder stop automatically stops the bobbin from winding once it is full.
Bobbin Winding Tension Disc
The bobbin winding tension disc ensures that your bobbin will wind evenly.
As with the thread guides, you must pull the thread through the bobbin winding tension disc to ensure that the thread is tight enough to prevent loose or unevenly distributed thread but not so tight as to stretch the thread.
Clear Bobbin Cover Plate
This clear plate covers the entrance to the bobbin.
This transparent cover allows you to monitor the thread supply so you don’t run out of thread in the middle of a seam.
Sometimes, the cover is marked with the bobbin threading diagram. Some are also marked with seam allowance measurements.
Feed Dogs
Feed dogs are teeth-like ridges that grip the fabric and move as you sew to help feed the fabric through the machine.
They are located in an opening in the needle/throat plate and help create a high-quality stitch.
Foot Pedal Cord/Jack
The foot pedal/cord jack is the place where you plug the foot pedal into the machine.
Foot Release Lever
The foot release lever is a lever located behind the presser foot that releases snap-on presser feet.
It allows for quick release of presser feet enabling you to change them out with ease.
Handle
The handle, which is located at the top of the machine, is to help you easily carry and transport your sewing machine.
Hand Wheel
The hand wheel is the large wheel located on the top right side of the machine. It is used to manually turn the needle/shift the needle up and down.
Most often, it is used to lift the needle into the proper position for threading, or to move the needle down into the fabric to start a seam or turn the fabric.
It can also be used to manually sew/move the machine needle in instances where extra caution or extra control is required.
*Tip: The hand wheel should only be turned towards you. It is not good for the machine to rotate it backward.
Hook Assembly/Hook Race
The hook race is a circular metal groove/track piece that runs around the bobbin case allowing the hook to travel in a circular path around the bobbin when the machine is in motion.
Located in the interior of the machine and beneath the bobbin and bobbin case (see diagram), the needle plate, bobbin, and bobbin case must be removed in order to access the hook race. The hook race/assembly itself is a fixed piece.
Horizontal Spool Pin
The horizontal spool pin is the post that the thread spool goes on.
It is fixed to the machine and is typically located at the top.
(Note: The thread you place here serves as the top thread when sewing.)
Computerized Machine: LCD Display (top), Stich Selection and Adjustment Buttons (middle), Stitch Guide (bottom)
LCD Screen
The LCD screen, or flat-panel display, shows the selected stitch, as well as the stitch width and length settings.
It uses a back-lit seven-segment display, like a digital clock, to display the monochrome numbers.
On sewing machines, this typically involves a small window containing the numbers which are programmed by separate pushbuttons outside of the screen.
LCD Touch Screen
Otherwise operating similar to the standard LCD screen, the touch screen has additional layers built on top of the display elements to provide functionality.
On a sewing machine, these typically involve larger, full-panel screens that house nearly all of the operation control buttons. So, instead of simply displaying the selected numbers, buttons on the screen are used to select the stitch length and width, as well as the stitch patterns.
Light
A small LED light is built-in to most modern machines. It is typically located on the underside of the top part of the machine to light up the needle and needle plate/sewing area.
These automatically turn on when you turn on the machine and typically last a very long time.
Needle
The sewing machine needle is a specialized needle used specifically designed for use with a sewing machine.
Simply put, the sewing machine needle consists of a shank, which goes into the sewing machine clamp, a shaft (the long bottom part of the needle), an eye (which carries the thread), and a point.
Needles come in different sizes and contain different points. The different sizes and points relate to fabric type and weight.
Needle Bar
The needle bar is a thick bar that functions as one of the main parts of the sewing machine; it is responsible for holding the needle and presser foot assembly.
Needle Clamp Screw
Attached to the needle bar, the needle clamp screw is the part of the needle assembly that holds the sewing machine needle in place.
The clamp screw is adjusted with the screwdriver included with your machine.
Needle/Throat Plate
The needle plate is a large, flat metal plate located under the machine’s needle and presser foot assembly.
The needle plate features holes/slits for the feed dogs, as well as the needle, to move up and down through. It is built around the bobbin area, in the case of drop-in bobbins, and also features guidance measurements marked on the plate.
The needle plate is attached to the machine with screws, which you can and should remove in order to remove the plate and clean the inside of your machine.
Needle Up/Down Button
The needle up/down button is a computerized operation button allowing for the needle to move up or down via the press of the button instead of using the handwheel or foot pedal.
Limited to computerized machines, this button allows for sewing without a foot pedal.
It can only be used when the foot pedal is disconnected.
Advantages: Operation at the touch of a button.
Disadvantages: Using a foot pedal allows for more control in addition to allowing you to reflexively lift your foot immediately off the foot pedal to slow or stop sewing. It also leaves both of your hands-free.
Presser Foot
A presser foot is an attachment used with sewing machines to hold fabric flat as it is fed through the machine and stitched.
Most quality presser feet are made of metal, although some feature plastic elements for specific reasons. For example, a general-purpose foot often features a clear panel connecting the piece which allows you to see what you sew, while the Teflon presser foot is made entirely of plastic to allow for non-stick sewing with vinyl fabric.
These can be easily attached with a small bar across the top of them, in the case of snap-on presser feet, or attached via their own shank with a screwdriver.
See below to learn more about which presser feet are standard, as well as extra, inclusions with sewing machines.
A Variety of Presser Feet (Includes, Overcasting Foot, Zipper Foot, Gathering Foot, Satin Stitch Foot, Straight Stitch Foot, Walking Foot, Darning and Embroidery Foot, Blind Hem Foot, Non-Stick Foot, Rolled Hem Foot)
Presser Foot Lifter
The presser foot lifter, which is a lever located towards the back side of the needle and presser foot assembly, is quite literally used to lift the presser foot up from the needle plate and then back down.
You’ll use this little lever frequently, as it is necessary any time you start/stop sewing a new piece of fabric, want to change presser feet, want to change the needle, etc.
Presser Foot Screw
Also known as a thumb screw, the presser foot screw is located at the base of the needle bar and is used for loosening and tightening the presser foot shank to change out presser feet.
With machines that feature snap-on presser feet, it is rarely necessary to use this feature, as most feet (with a few exceptions) are snapped onto a single main shank. This makes switching out presser feet extremely easy and saves time.
With machines that do not have snap-on presser feet, it is necessary to unscrew the shank each time you change out a presser foot.
Presser Foot Shank
A presser foot shank is a piece that covers the distance between the presser foot and screw.
Most machines with snap-on presser feet have a single main shank that the presser feet are attached to, making it rarely necessary to change out the shank. Only a few specialty presser feet, such as the gathering foot, blind hem foot, darning and embroidery foot, etc., have their own shank attached, thus requiring you to unscrew the main shank and switch it out in its entirety.
With machines that do not have snap-on presser feet, each presser foot has its own shank.
Reverse/Back Stitch/Tacking Stitch Button/Lever, or Auto-lock Stitch Button
Depending on how the specific machine operates, this button engages backstitching (stitching backward/in the reverse direction to prevent the thread from unraveling).
On some machines, this button can also do tack stitching with certain stitch selections, which means that it tack stitches in place (like tying off the end of thread) instead of stitching backward for a few stitches.
On my machine, I press the button once to engage the tack-stitching (for certain stitch patterns only) and press and hold this button to sew backward.
Beginner tip: it is only necessary to sew backward for a few stitches to keep the thread in place, which is why the machine does not continually sew backward/you must press the button the whole time.
Ruler
Some machines feature a ruler, or line gauge, directly on the front of the machine.
Seam Allowance Guidance Measurements
Seam allowance guidance measurements are often included on the needle plate or surrounding area. These marks measure the distance from the needle, at the center point, to the edge of a particular mark.
By placing your fabric edge at the edge of a particular mark, you ensure that the distance between it and the needle is accurate and consistent. For example, if you place your fabric at the ¼” mark, the distance between the mark and the needle will be ¼”, thus giving you an accurate and consistent ¼” seam allowance as you sew.
Sewing Speed Control
Most often a feature of computerized machines, the sewing speed control allows you to set your sewing speed. Typically in the form of a lever, the speed control allows you to set the maximum sewing speed you are comfortable with. The sewing speed will never go above the speed you set regardless of how hard you push on the pedal.
This is a great feature regardless of sewing experience but can be especially helpful as a beginner.
*As a beginner I kept it on the lowest speed setting while I learned how to operate the machine. It made my beginner projects less overwhelming and look nicer because I didn’t have to worry about things moving too fast. Even now, I use the lower speeds in instances where extra care is required or I am sewing something difficult.
Start/Stop Button
The start/stop button is a computerized operation button that allows you to start or stop sewing at the bush of a button.
Limited to computerized machines, this button allows for sewing without a foot pedal and can only be used when the foot pedal is disconnected.
Advantages: Operation at the touch of a button.
Disadvantages: Using a foot pedal allows for more control in addition to allowing you to reflexively lift your foot immediately off the foot pedal to slow or stop sewing.
Stitch Length & Width Adjustment Buttons/Dial
On a computerized machine, these individual buttons allow you to adjust the stitch length and width. The appearance of a stitch can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the length between the stitches (stitch length), and the size of the stitch can be adjusted from left to right (stitch width) to make the stitch as narrow or wide as you desire.
On computerized machines with a touch screen, these adjustments are made through buttons directly on the screen.
On a mechanical machine, these may be adjusted via a mechanical dial rather than digital buttons.
Stitch Pattern Reference Guide
The stitch pattern reference guide shows you the stitch pattern options available on your machine. A small sample of each stitch pattern is shown and each is typically given a number that you then use to select the pattern.
Stitch Selection Buttons/Wheel
On a computerized machine, these individual buttons allow you to select the stitch pattern that you want to use.
On computerized machines with a touch screen, these adjustments are made through buttons directly on the screen.
On a mechanical machine, these may be adjusted via a mechanical dial rather than digital buttons.
Thread path and thread hook up (metal piece sticking up), tension control dial
Thread Cutter
Some machines have a built-in thread cutter. In some machines, this is in the form of a protected blade located on the back of the machine near the needle that you run the threads over to cut them. Fancier machines may have a button or push lever that automatically cuts the threads.
Threading & Bobbin Winding Guidance Symbols
Either in the form of a numerically guided path or diagram, the thread and bobbin winding guidance symbols show you the path to move the thread in order to correctly thread the machine.
Thread Path/Take Up
This is a numerically guided path for threading the machine.
Thread Tension Control Dial
The thread tension control dial adjusts the thread tension. This refers to the amount of thread that can pass through the machine to create the stitch.
The more thread in the stitch, the looser the stitch. Less thread equals a tighter stitch.
Sewing Machine Accessories
Some of the most basic, and typically lower-cost, machines may only include an all-purpose presser foot and a single bobbin.
However, most machines include a little more. Below is a list of the accessories you can expect to find in most machines.
Standard Accessories for Most Machines:
Foot Pedal/Controller
A Bobbin
A Sewing Machine Needle
Screwdriver for Needle Plate
Foot Pedal/Controller
Power Cord
Starter Presser Feet
All Purpose Foot [Insert Photo]
Zipper Foot [Insert Photo]
Buttonhole Foot [Insert Photo]
Extra Accessories Included with More Advanced Machines:
Starter Sewing Machine Needle Set
Additional Bobbins
Spool Pin Caps of Varying Sizes
*Sometimes called a spool holder, the spool pin cap holds the spool of thread (or cone) on the spool pin. They keep the thread from coming off the spool pin, as well as hold the thread slightly away from the spool.
They can come in different sizes to match different thread spool sizes.
Machine Accessories. Shown Here: Bobbins, Spool Pin Caps, Spool Pin Felt Discs, Needle, Seam Ripper and Lint Brush, Needle, Auxiliary Spool Pin
Spool Felt Disc
Spool Pin Felt Discs of Varying Sizes
The spool pin felt disc is a small circular piece of felt that is placed between your thread spool and spool pin cap.
It lets the spool of thread turn smoothly. It also minimizes the noise as your thread spool turns.
Seam Ripper/Lint Brush
Additional Presser Feet
Can include:
Darning Plate
Straight Stitch Foot
Darning & Embroidery Foot
Overcasting Foot
Satin Stitch Foot
Blind Stitch Foot
Gathering Foot
Rolled Hem Foot
Darning Plate
A darning plate is a plate that is placed over the feed dogs to allow you to mend holes and tears.
Alternatively, some machines feature a button that lowers the feed dogs.
It prevents the fabric from being tugged by the feed dogs. This ensures a neat repair. It can also be used for free-motion sewing, such as stipple quilting, monograms, and embroidery.
An Auxiliary Spool Pin (if the machine supports twin-needle sewing)
An auxiliary spool pin is an extra spool pin that attaches to the machine. It comes with machines that support twin-needle sewing.
Other:
Dust Cover
A dust cover is a thin cover to keep the machine dust-free while not in use. It is included with some machines.
Hard-Sided Case
A hard-sided case is typically for transporting the machine. It is included with some machines.
If not included, it can be purchased separately.
I use the Singer Universal Hard Carrying Case, and I love it because it really protects my machine. It is large enough to fit the average machine and it has a nice secure base to sit the sewing machine in. Additionally, it has room for my manual, pedal, and chord.
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Free-arm Sewing
Some sewing machines come with an option for free-arm sewing. This allows you to sew circular or tubular items, as there is space all around the main sewing area.
In some machines, you must remove the accessory box to allow for free-arm sewing.
Extension Table
An extension table comes included with some machines. Or, it can be added to your purchase. It attaches to the machine to extend the workspace.