Serger vs. Sewing Machine. Do You Need A Serger?
First thing first: Do you actually need a serger as a beginner sewer?
Keep reading to find out more about what a serger is and why it might not be necessary to have one starting out.
Before we dive into sergers, let’s first get one important question out of the way…
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WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A SERGER AND AN OVERLOCKER MACHINE?
None. There’s absolutely no difference. Serger and Overlocker (or Overlock) Machine are just different names for the same machine.
SO, WHAT IS A SERGER?
Image courtesy of Ashley Diane Worsham of Unsplash
First of all, Sergers are an entirely separate machine from sewing machines.
A serger is a machine that is primarily used to trim the edges of fabric and enclose seams all in one step. Sergers use overlock stitches to prevent fraying and finish seams nicely and quickly.
An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of fabric to enclose the edges/create seams. It keeps the fabric from fraying/unraveling and adds a professional finish.
A serger is comparable in cost to purchasing a sewing machine, depending on brand and model, and includes its own accessories. This includes its own unique thread spools, different needles, and different presser feet.
As with sewing machines, there are different types of sergers. Sergers typically include anywhere from 2 to 6 threads, with 3-tread and 4-thread machines being the most commonly used for home sewing.
Sergers use two needles for added stability and include at least one thread spool for each needle. Similar to the way bobbins work, sergers also have looper threads that feed up through the inside bottom of the machine to tie into the serge chain. A 4-thread serger has both upper and lower loops of thread. Sergers also feature separate tension disks for each thread spool/loop of thread.
Additionally, sergers also feature knives, inside the machine, that work together to trim the excess fabric as it is being sewn. This ensures that you always have clean edges and a uniform stitch. This adds to the professional look of the seam.
WHAT TO USE A SERGER FOR:
Sergers can be used to finish raw edges or for construction.
While sergers are most often associated with finishing seams, they technically can perform other sewing tasks and can be used to complete projects or even construct full garments, depending on what you are making.
However, when it comes to constructing an entire garment, sergers can be somewhat limited. Typically, you only use knitted materials when constructing entire garments with sergers.
While you technically can also construct woven fabric garments with a serger, it is not ideal. With woven fabrics, it is often better to have the extra seam allowance, since there’s little give in the fabric and they are often prone to excessive fraying. Extra seam allowance is not achievable with a serger.
WHEN TO USE:
Sergers are typically used for inside seams…most often inside a shirt.
Sergers are ideal for constructing garments entirely out of knit fabrics, such as a knitted dress, because knits are not prone to fraying and there is no extra seam allowance required. Sergers are particularly useful when working with knits/stretchy fabrics, as they can finish stretchy seams.
You can also use a serger to close off the raw edges of woven fabrics to help prevent fraying.
BUT…
While sergers can be a great addition to your sewing room, they are not a substitute for sewing machines.
Sergers cannot perform some of the common sewing functions, such as topstitching, sewing zippers, or sewing buttonholes. Neither can they finish raw hems.
Sergers also cannot do corners like sewing machines (you know…where you put your needle down, lift the presser foot up, and then turn the fabric 90 degrees, and then continue sewing). With sergers, the fabric has to remain on one stretch and feed through continuously. (Note: It does do curves…just not sharp corners.)
SO, DO YOU NEED A SERGER?
NO
As a beginner, it is absolutely not necessary for you to purchase a serger.
While you may not be able to have a serger apart from also owning a sewing machine, it is not necessary to have a serger. You can perform nearly all of your sewing tasks on your sewing machine and you can take care of raw edges and finish seams without a serger.
Regular sewing machines can finish seams sufficiently without you having to incur the additional cost of a second machine at the beginning or early stages of your sewing journey. In fact, depending on the sewing machine, seams can be finished in a similar way as to those of a serger.
Depending on the type and level of the sewing machine, you can come pretty close to having all of the needed features in just one machine.
Furthermore, sergers may also be unnecessary for you if garment construction is not your primary focus, or if it is not your intention to frequently work with knitted fabrics. Since sewing machines can finish edges and construct seams, particularly if they come with an overcasting foot, they are likely all that is needed with non-clothing projects or infrequent use of knitted fabrics.
As a beginner, focus on learning how to use a sewing machine. Focus on learning the stretch stitches and see what type of sewing you do most often.
You can evaluate your need for a serger as you become more experienced and as you dive into more advanced sewing projects.
Side Note: I do not yet own a serger and I know of many experienced sewers who did not start out with a serger or still do not own one today.
If you feel like you are beginning to sew with more knit fabrics, or perhaps you get into more advanced or frequent garment construction, then you can absolutely invest in a serger in the future. If, for example, you plan on making all of your child’s clothes or decide to develop your own clothing line, then you should probably get one at some point in the future. It will make the process easier and faster.
But don’t buy one just because…it really isn’t necessary.
HOW CAN I FINISH RAW EDGES AND SEAMS WITHOUT A SERGER?
Raw edges can be enclosed and seams can be finished using regular sewing machines.
Zig-Zag Stitch:
Zig-Zag Stitch
Use of a zig-zag stitch is one way raw edges can be enclosed without a serger.
Just about every machine comes with a zig-zag stitch, so this should be an option regardless of which sewing machine model you have and regardless of whether it is mechanical or computerized.
Therefore, even with basic sewing machines, you can use a zig-zag stitch along the edge of your fabric to help prevent fraying and enclose seams.
Instructions:
When sewing, just make sure you line up your needle so that the outer edge of the zig-zag stitch catches at the very edge of the fabric, or just over the edge of the fabric.
When finishing seams, sew the two pieces of fabric together with the seam allowance, as normal, and then run the zig-zag stitch along the edge.
You can either use the zig-zag stitch to pre-treat all the edges of your fabric, or you can use it to give seams a nicer finish.
Using a Zig-Zag Stitch to enclose a raw edge.
Overcasting Presser Foot and Overedge Stich:
Overcasting Presser Foot
The best way, however, to finish raw edges and enclose seams with a sewing machine is through the use of an overcasting presser foot and an overedge stitch.
Slightly more advanced sewing machines may come with an overcasting presser foot and an overedge stitch. The overcasting presser foot and overedge stitch allow you to closely mimic the way sergers finish seams. Overedge stitches sew the seam and finish the seam edge all in one step, similar to the serger.
Overedge Stitches
As with the zig-zag stitch, the overcasting foot and overedge stitch can be used to pre-treat fabric to prevent all edges from unraveling, and can also be used to finish seams while preventing fraying simultaneously.
It can also add strength to seams even when fraying is not a concern.
So, if you invest in a sewing machine that includes an overcasting presser foot and an overedge stitch, then you can achieve all of your sewing needs within one machine.
You can come pretty close to the functions of the serger without having to purchase the extra machine.
Side Note: The overcasting foot is my second most-used presser foot (second only to the general-purpose foot), and I would highly recommend that you consider purchasing a machine that comes with one included. Or, if it can be added, add it. I use it for everything.
Using an Overcasting Stitch to enclose a raw edge.
IN SUMMARY:
No, you don’t need a serger as a beginner. You can take care of enclosing raw edges and finishing seams just fine with a regular sewing machine. A regular sewing machine may be all that you ever need.
However, you can always add a serger in the future, once you gain more experience and your sewing becomes more advanced.
And of course, if you plan on frequently sewing with knit fabrics or sewing a lot of clothing, then it makes sense for you to get a serger in the future.